We get a lot of questions at Fenrock regarding climbing terminology and hold types.

Here we are going to go over some of the most common hold types within climbing to hopefully break some of the boundaries new climbers.

CRIMP

A very small hold usually no bigger than the pads of your fingers.

TECHNIQUES

  • Keep your body as close to the wall as possible
  • Work on open and closed crimps to avoid tendon injuries

JUG

These types of holds tend to be large and positive where you are able to get your fingers behind and securely hold on to.

TECHNIQUES

  • Keep your arms as straight as you can to avoid them getting too tired too quickly

PINCH

Typically you grip this hold between your fingers and your thumb. Pinches come in different shapes and sizes.

TECHNIQUES

  • Similar to how a crab pinches with its claws, using your thumb is crucial to hold this

SLOPER

A rounded hold which has no lip or edge to it.

TECHNIQUE

  • Get as much surface area of your hand onto the hold as possible
  • Where possible keep your body below the hold

POCKET

A hold with a hole in it.

TECHNIQUE

  • Similar to crimps keep your body close to the wall
  • Your forefinger and middle finger tend to be the stronger fingers, so aim to prioritize these

SCREW-ONS

Very small holds with the minimum amount of purchase for feet or hands. These are smaller than your average hold.

TECHNIQUE

  • When using feet make sure to place the big toe onto the hold
  • When using hands, first strengthen your fingertips and tendons to avoid injuries.

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